This week's guest blogger is with Lucy Djevdet from Crafting by Lucy!

''Perfect for the intermediate crocheter, this shopping bag pattern is great for giving yourself a challenge and creating something super useful!''



Once blocked your finished bag should measure approximately 43cm in width by 38cm in height.


Just like a few of the other Creative Rox blog posts, I thought it would be helpful to share what some of the abbreviations in the patterns mean. These are all based on UK terms.

ch - Chain

dc - Double Crochet

htr - Half Treble Crochet

sl st - Slip Stitch

Methods used: Tapestry Crochet

Other notes

Once you get to the grid section of this bag ensure you are not pulling your second yarn colour too tight at the edge of each colour change row as this will pull in the edges of the bag. The grid should be read from right to left then left to right.


19sts = 10cm w x 16 rows = 10cm

Foundation Chain

Ensure the foundation chain is not worked too tight. Using Yarn A start by Chaining 82+ 1 for turning.

Row 1

Ch1 (Does not count as a st throughout), dc in the next st and each st until you reach the end of the row (82 sts)

Row 2 - 13

Check your tension against the tension guide.

ch2, htr in each st across.

Row 13

This is the start of the pattern grid.  You will be switching from Yarn A to Yarn B throughout the grid pattern.  Ensure you read the grid from right to left then left to right.

Begin row 15 by carrying Yarn B through the entire row. ch1, dc in each st across until the end of the row.

Row 16-52

Begin working the pattern grid using the tapestry crochet method working between Yarn A and Yarn B.  each st of the grid pattern will be worked in dc.  Ensure you are not pulling your second yarn colour too tight at the end of each row.

Row 53

Note the switch back to htr st.

ch2 htr in each st across until the end of the row.

Row 54-70

Repeat row 53 for 15 more rows.

Add a stitch marker and leave your yarn attached.

Side 2

You will now be working to opposite side of your bag.

Attach your yarn to the first st of the foundation ch and dc across each st to the end of the row.

Ch 2 1 htr in each st across.  Repeat this for 57 rows until the reverse side of your bag measures the same as the front.

Before you begin Row 70 fold your bag in half, take a darning needle and sew up each side of your bag. This will ensure you can work the top of your bag in the round, creating even handles.

Row 71

Now your bag has been sewn together at the sides.  The top of the bag (creating the handles) will be worked in the round.

ch1, 1dc in each st around, joining your work with a sl st at the end of the first round.

Row 72

Use your stitch markers to count in 25 sts from each edge.  This will mark the start of your handles.  You should have 4 markers in place.

Ch 2, 25htr, ch41 (this will form the handle on one side), sk the next 31 sts join with a sl st to st 32 the 25 htr.

This will take you to the corner of your bag.  It is now time to continue working around your bag to make the opposite side handle.

25htr, ch41 (this will form the handle on one side), sk the next 31 sts join with a sl st to st 32 and htr 25.  Join with a sl st at the end of this row.

Row 73

Ch 1, dc in the next 25 sts.  1dc in each of the 41 ch from the previous round, 25dc in each st to the next corner.

Repeat the above for the opposite side of the bag.

Row 74 - 77

Ch2, htr in every st around your bag, join with a sl st at the end of each round.

Secure and fasten off your yarn at the end of row 77 and sew in your loose ends.

Finishing Your Bag

Sew in all your loose ends and block your bag.

Once your bag is blocked, you are ready to shop!

Lucy is the maker behind Crafting by Lucy. You can find her on instagram using @craftingbylucy and her website which is: